Hardware PI Guide

Hardware is PI allocation. Within the target class, first hit the lateral G and top-speed range you need, then decide where the remaining PI should go. Tires and drivetrain define the car's character first; parts that unlock tuning and weight reduction come next. Add power last.

Premise: copy the meta tuners first

Hardware is not something you guess from zero. Apply a public meta-tuner setup and you can immediately see which tires, drivetrain, engine, weight reduction, and setup-unlock parts it bought. The frequency tables in this guide summarize those copyable facts so you know what to question and compare when building your own.

Lateral G Is the Baseline

Lateral G is the cornering stat shown at the bottom of the upgrade checkout screen. Treat it as a filter for candidates, not as a guaranteed lap-time answer.

The targets below reorganize the class-by-class lateral G and top-speed guidelines from the Japanese FH6 machine build/setup guide. The source itself is marked as provisional and under review, so use the balanced-build ±0.1 lateral G and ±20km/h top-speed ranges as candidate filters. If a base car still cannot reach the class cap after lowering PI as much as possible, treat it as a poor fit for that class.

Hardware Build

What Hardware Decides

A fast build is not the car with the most good parts attached. It is the car that wastes less PI. Tires, drivetrain, weight reduction, engine, and forced induction all compete inside the same 800/900 cap.

PI budget is the build itself

Every upgrade pushes against the same PI budget. PI spent on power comes out of tires and weight reduction.

Parts that unlock tuning come first

Differential, antiroll bars, springs/dampers, and transmission parts open a large adjustment range for their PI cost.

Tires and drivetrain set the character

Grip, stability, weight, and drag are decided here. Read the sample frequency first.

Build Order

1. Lock the car and purpose first Set the class, surface, and target speed range first, then check whether the build can reach the source guide's lateral G and top-speed candidate ranges.
2. Choose tires and drivetrain first Pick the compound first, then compare RWD/AWD/FWD. Road has wider drivetrain choices; off-road leans heavily AWD.
3. Add the parts that open setup controls Check parts that unlock setup controls first: differential, antiroll bars, springs/dampers, and sport transmission.
4. Check conversions and engine For engine swaps, read power, torque, weight, weight distribution, and top speed together.
5. Use boost to find PI efficiency Check a centrifugal supercharger first when available. Otherwise compare turbo and supercharger options against each other.
6. Spend PI on weight reduction Weight reduction improves acceleration, braking, rotation, and direction changes at the same time.
7. Allocate width, aero, and brakes Rear width builds traction; front width helps turn-in and braking stability. For aero, count the drag cost too.
8. Read transmission with PI and powerband When a transmission is forced by an AWD swap, or when the build needs to stay in its powerband, compare gear count and PI cost together.
9. Use leftover PI for power and fine adjustment Use rim size, driveline, flywheel, and rim weight to fit the final 1-2 PI.
10. Reject bad bases before tuning If it cannot hit both target lateral G and top speed, question the base car before the setup values.

Engine and Boost Choice

How to Read the PI Budget

One good choice does not complete a build. Find where PI is leaking, then decide what to keep and what to cut.

Allocating the Remaining Parts

Use remaining PI to fill a role. Spend it on whichever of grip, weight, stability, or top speed is currently missing.

Per-Car Decision Log

Record the reason for each choice, not just the part names. That keeps comparisons consistent as samples grow.